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Step 1. Put the Mankey strap through one of the holes from underneath and back down through the other one of the pair. It helps if you make sure that the ends of the strap are neatly trimmed and melted so they pass through the holes easily. Pull one end so it is much longer than the other, leave at least 5 inches on the short end. |
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Step 2. Spot the holes you will be using. On a 48 spoke wheel these will be alternate inner kite shaped holes as marked in red. Each pair of mounting holes will sit directly above one of these. When you mate the GLAND up to the spokes the outer rim MUST lie flat against the spokes. If it doesnt then you can trim the inner lip to help it clear and lie flat to the spokes. (Note this will NOT void the warranty) |
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Step 3. Feed both the free ends of the strap through the first of these gaps between spokes and feed the longer end over to the nearer of the next pair of mounting holes. Try not to twist the strap. Pull it tight down through the new hole. Take note here that the edge of the gland is touching the spokes before any tension is added to the strap, this is how it should be. |
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Step 4. Turn over to the other side and feed the long free end down through the other hole of the pair. Again try to avoid putting a twist into the strap. |
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Step 5. Use your hand underneath to keep the already threaded part tight while you feed the free end up. |
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Step 6. Pull the end nice and tight as you release the underside so that everything stays nice and tight. |
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Step 7. Move on to the next mounting holes and repeat as above. Work your way round the guard and try to keep the strap as tight as possible. This is a bit fiddly but you shouldnt have to do it more than once or twice so please be patient and do it right. |
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Step 8. When you reach the other end of the strap (back at the start). Take your time to make sure the GLAND is nie and firmly fixed to the wheel. If it seems a bit slack and you can wiggle it a lot, then work round from the start and feed the slack through hoel by hole. Pass both free ends up through the spokes and tie a simple knot. This is the first stage of a reef knot. |
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Step 9. Feed the free ends out through other spoke holes so you can get a good grip on them from an appropriate angle and pull the knot very tight. |
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Step 10. Try to keep the first knot from slipping back as you tie the other half of the reef knot. Note how the free end and the tight end leave the knot next to each other, this is the difference between a secure reef knot and a flawed granny knot that will come loose. Pull the second half as tight as you can. |
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Step 11. Tie more knots on top to make it extra secure, or use a lighter or blow torch to melt the knot VERY SLIGHTLY. This will make it very hard for it to come loose. Be very careful if melting the knot that you dont weaken it by excess heat. As soon as you see the slightest darkening that is plenty . |
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Step 12. Trim the excess from the ends of the strap to stop them flapping about. |
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All finished. This is how it should look at the end. Happy grinding and I hope you enjoy it. |