G Sport HUBS

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G-Sport products offer a LOT of advantages over the competition. All the products are made here in the UK rather than being typical clones.
Please take the time to read all about them.
HUBS
(There are 44 hubs to choose from. This page applies to all of them. Specifics on each can be found from the links)

VANDAL

HOMER

MONKEY

MARMOSET

G-Sport is probably most famous for our range of top quality hubs. Thousands of owners feel the benefits of stiffer axles, smoother bearings and ultimate strength every day.

We took the hub and started again completely from scratch, the aim was to make a base for a wheel that you could simply ride and ride and ride. The axle will NEVER bend or snap and the bearings are far stronger and therefore smoother than those used in ANY other BMX hub.

Since performance is the primary concern G-Sport rear hubs ONLY come in 48 spoke versions. The 12 extra spokes only add about 2 ounces to the weight of a wheel but increase its strength by over 30%, see the FAQ in the support section for more info. There is now also a 36 hole front hub, the Marmoset, but you should only choose this hub if you are a fairly smooth rider and prepared to take very good care of your wheel.

Here's a section through a complete rear hub. The shell and drive side collar have had a section cut away so you can see everything.
The first thing you will notice is that there are no cone nuts. Instead a simple precision made collar slides over the end of the axle and is clamped in place when the main axle bolts tighten the dropout of the bike against it. Because of this system you will NEVER have to adjust anything on a G-Sport hub, just fit and forget.
From this view you can also clearly see how the massive bearings have had to be mounted in-board of the freewheel. All other freewheel hubs squeeze tiny bearings into the gap between freewheel and axle with the result that they dont last very long.
Although the hub looks big and chunky on the outside from the cut view you can see that the shell is actually almost entirely hollowed out keeping weight to a bare minimum while enhancing stiffness.
The large surface area of the ends of the axle and collars, coupled with the super strong stiff 20mm axle, actually strengthens the bike! By bolting the two droputs together with such a stiff axle the overall strength of the whole bike is improved so much so that you can FEEL the difference.
All G-Sport hubs feature angles flanges so that the spokes run straight to the rim with the minimum of distortion.

The heart of all the G-Sport hubs is the massive 20mm hollow axle. The axle sits entirely between the dropout so there is no need to enlarge the dropout or anything.
Again we have cut this axle right down the middle so you can see just how efficient and simple it is. You can also see just how much thread engages on the bolts. Because there is typically 2 to 3 times as much thread engaging as on an ordinary wheel nut the bolts can be cranked down as tight as you want without any risk of stripping. This means that the wheel is not going to slip in the dropout and chain tensioners are not necessary (saving weight and removing one of the most vulnerable components).
Because the bolts are an "off-the-shelf" size they can be purchased in a whole range of lengths from any good bolt stockists, so you can tailor them to your own set-up.

Here's the un-cut axle as it is installed in a typical hub and next to it the axle from a Profile cassette hub for comparason.
As you can see the G-Sport axle is substantially thicker.
What you cant see is that they weigh EXACTLY the same amount!

What you also cant see is that the G-Sport axle is guaranteed for life against bending or snapping for any reason while the Profile axle is not.

All G-Sport hubs (except the Marmoset) use the same massive bearings (on the left).
The bearings on the right are from the same Profile cassette hub as the axle above, next to the G-Sport bearings they look tiny, now consider that many 14 tooth freewheel hubs use bearings that are even smaller!

By using such hugely oversize bearings you can be sure that G-Sport hubs will consistantly outperform other hubs in how smooth they roll.

Now also available is this Titanium bolt kit for all 9/16" (14mm) bolted G-Sport hubs. These quality grade 5 Titanium bolts are made in the UK as with all other G-SPort products and are very nearly as strong as the normal steel versions but just half the weight. Supplied in pairs with anti-seize compound.
TOTAL weight saving 71g / 2.5 ounces. Limited availability.

VANDAL	HOMER	MONKEY	MARMOSET
For the harshest street rider	Mainstay of the range	Super light 48hole front hub	ULTRA-LIGHT 36-hole front hub

PLEASE NOTE

Larger 9/16" bolted axles use a bolt which is 9/16" NOT 14mm. On a very few frames and pegs this may require a very small amount of metal to be removed from the peg or dropout to let the bolt pass through cleanly.

9/16" is actually 14.2875mm, and the bolts generally come out at around 14.25mm.
Most frame and peg manufacturers allow a reasonable clearance in their fits to allow for slight damage to pegs and dropouts and axles not to jam everything up, and in the vast majority of frames and pegs the 9/16" bolts fit through with no difficulty. The only manufacturers whos products seem to be incompatable "out of the box" are Kink and a couple of others.

If your pegs and dropouts are not new then they may be a tight fit due to damage. Over time, dropouts do pinch AND pegs can become tight as the end is compressed by the pressure from the nut and splurges out into the hole.

As I say the vast majority of parts will fit as they are, and for the few that need a quarter of a millimeter to be filed out I thought it was worth the inconvenience to be able to use such a common size of bolt. By using this size you should be able to buy replacement bolts in a range of lengths from any good bolt stockists for just a few pence each, and they fit a normal large spark plug socket. IF i had instead gone with a 14mm bolt it would have been a very unusual size and hard to get hold of, it would have cost a lot more per bolt and the socket to remove it would be too big to fit in a lot of pegs and would be a size most people do not have handy (so requiring extra expense buying tools). Given these two choices I went for the one I thought would suit most riders best. I hope you agree that I did the right thing.

If you have a question, and you cant find the answer on the site then you can mail me direct by clicking HERE

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